Susan Feniger: A Culinary Life Rooted in Joy, Curiosity, and LGBTQ Visibility

Before she was a celebrated chef, restaurateur, and television personality, Susan Feniger was a college student majoring in economics—until a single comment from a campus supervisor changed her life. “Why are you studying economics? You should be a chef,” they said, after noticing her constant presence in the kitchen. It was a lightbulb moment. Feniger quickly pivoted, convincing her professor to let her complete her final year as an independent study at the Culinary Institute of America. She never looked back.

From that spark of inspiration, Feniger’s culinary journey has been anything but conventional. Her path has been shaped by an insatiable curiosity, a love of travel, and the mentorship of groundbreaking women—none more influential than Julia Child, whom she came to know personally. “She was such a generous mentor,” Feniger recalls. “One of the most passionate, curious, and joyful people in food.” That joy would become a hallmark of Feniger’s own culinary philosophy.

Another defining relationship began in 1978 at the French restaurant Le Perroquet in Chicago, where she met Mary Sue Milliken. At the time, they were the only two women in the kitchen. Over four decades later, their partnership has become a model of collaboration, trust, and boundary-pushing creativity.

Together, Feniger and Milliken co-founded Border Grill, a restaurant concept that celebrates the vibrant regional cuisines of Mexico with a commitment to sustainability. “We’ve always been drawn to the depth and complexity of Mexican food,” Feniger says. Over time, the menu has evolved to reflect more plant-based options—without sacrificing authenticity or flavor.

Travel has been a continual source of inspiration. Whether eating street food in India or shopping at markets in Mexico, Feniger finds stories in every dish. “Travel opens your mind, your palate, and your heart,” she says. “It’s the culture, the ingredients, the people—that’s what drives me to keep cooking.”

Some dishes have become fan favorites, anchoring her culinary legacy. “Our Green Corn Tamales were on the original Border Grill menu and customers never let us take them off,” she says. Others carry more personal or humorous origin stories—like the Stuffed Rigatoni with Chicken Fennel Mousse, born from a surplus of fennel. Today, she raves about the Salsa Macha at Socalo, her Santa Monica restaurant with Milliken: “It’s absolutely addictive.”

Socalo reflects a new chapter—one filled with fun, beachy vibes and bold Mexican flavors, from taco Tuesdays to happy hours. But Feniger is also expanding beyond Baja. In Palm Springs, her newest venture, Alice B., blends California ingredients with Mediterranean flair. “The space is all about community and joy,” she says.

That sense of joy and inclusion runs deep in all Feniger’s work, especially as an openly LGBTQ+ chef. Visibility matters to her—not just for her own story, but for the next generation. “When I was starting out, I didn’t see a lot of queer chefs in leadership roles,” she says. “Now, I try to be that example. I want everyone in my kitchens to feel seen and supported.”

She finds fresh energy in mentorship, particularly through her work with the Culinary Arts Program at the Los Angeles LGBT Center, where she collaborates with LGBTQ+ youth and seniors. “Their passion and resilience light a fire in me every time I’m in the kitchen with them,” she says. She’s also proud to support causes like Cool Comedy Hot Cuisine, benefiting the Scleroderma Research Foundation.

Of course, not every step of the journey has been easy. Early in her career, Feniger found herself hiding parts of her identity. “I remember avoiding talking about my partner in interviews, while Mary Sue would mention her husband,” she recalls. “Over time, I realized that being fully myself gave me strength. Now, I’m out and proud—and if my visibility can inspire just one person, it’s worth it.”

At home, Feniger’s favorite person to cook for is her wife of 30 years, filmmaker Liz Lachman, whose documentary Susan Feniger. FORKED chronicles her life and career. “Liz barely cooks and is so appreciative when I do,” she laughs. “She loves soba noodles and veggies.”

And if given the chance to cook for anyone else, Feniger has her dream dinner guest picked out: President Barack Obama. “He’s my hero. I’d make him an entire Indian feast.”

With decades of experience, a long list of accolades, and a seemingly endless well of energy, what keeps Susan Feniger going? “Trying new things, meeting new people, tasting new flavors,” she says. Her advice for young chefs—especially women and LGBTQ+ individuals—is simple, but powerful: “Follow your heart. Don’t let anyone tell you there’s no space for you—because there is. And ask for help, support others. We need more kitchens where everyone belongs.”